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Then I see what they're muttering/glowering about: several (like, fifteen) members of the United States Navy, on shore leave.
") Driving in from the airport, you're struck by the usual first-night-in-new-country exotica ("There's a "), and the skyscraper clusters were, okay, odd looking (like four or five architects had staged a weird-off, with unlimited funds)—but all in all, it was, you know, a city. The Madinat Jumeirah is, near as I can figure, a superresort consisting of three, or possibly six, luxury sub-hotels and two, or maybe three, clusters of luxury villas, spread out over about forty acres, or for all I know it was twelve sub-hotels and nine luxury-villa clusters—I really couldn't tell, so seamless and extravagant and confusing was all the luxury. Just before we're beheaded, will my translator try to get out of it by blaming everything on me? Dubai, turns out, is quite possibly the safest great city in the world. In the 1950s, before oil was discovered there, Dubai was just a cluster of mud huts and Bedouin tents along Dubai Creek: The entire city has basically been built in the last fifty years.From the air, Dubai looked something like Dallas circa 1985: a vast expanse of one- or two-story white bos, punctuated by clusters of freakish skyscrapers.Wandering around one night, a little lost, I came to the realization that verisimilitude and pleasure are not causally related. This is real flowing water, the date and palm trees are real, the smell of incense and rose water is real.The staggering effect of the immense scale of one particular crosswalk—which joins two hotels together and is, if you can imagine this, a four-story ornate crosswalk that looks like it should have 10,000 cheering Imperial Troops clustered under it and an enigmatic young Princess waving from one of its arabesquey windows—that effect is . It makes you feel happy and heroic and a little breathless, in love anew with the world and its possibilities.Afterward, I reconvene with my former line mates in a sort of faux river bend.
Becalmed, traffic-jammed, we bob around in our tubes, trying to keep off one another via impotent little hand flips, bare feet accidentally touching ("Ha, wope, sorry, heh…"), legs splayed, belly-up in the blinding 112-degree Arabian sun, self-conscious and expectant, as in: "Are we, like, stuck here? I hope I'm not the one who drifts under that dang No one is glowering or muttering now. There will be no pure Arab, no pure Jew, no pure American-American.
The hotel workers I met at the Madinat, for example, having been handpicked by Jumeirah scouts from the finest hotels in their native countries, are a class, or two, or three, above the scores of South Asian laborers who do the heavy construction work, who live in labor camps on the outskirts of town where they sleep ten to a room, and whose social life, according to one British expat I met, consists of "a thrilling evening once a month of sitting in a circle popping their bulbs out so some bloody Russian chickie can race around hand-jobbing them all in a mob."You see these construction guys all over town: somewhat darker-complexioned, wearing blue jumpsuits, averting their eyes when you try to say hello, squatting outside a work site at three in the morning because Dubai construction crews work twenty-four hours a day, seven days a week.
A short, complimentary golf-cart ride down the beach from the Madinat is Wild Wadi, a sprawling, themed water park whose theme is: A wadi is flooding!
Even though he saw it going up himself, he said, he feels it is an ancient place every time he enters and finds it hard to believe that, three years ago, it was all just sand.
UAE nationals comprise about 20 percent of the city's population.
It has been called the Vegas of the Middle East, but Dubai goes way, way beyond that: By 2010, if all goes according to plan, it may well be the greatest city on earth. A guided tour through steroidal capitalism, world revolution, and the finest hotel rooms money can buy If you are like I was three weeks ago, before I went to Dubai, you may not know exactly where Dubai is. If America was looking for a pluralistic, tax-free, laissez-faire, diverse, inclusive, tolerant, no-holds-barred, daringly capitalist country to serve as a shining City on the Hill for the entire Middle East, we should have left Iraq alone and sponsored a National Peaceful Tourist Excursion to Dubai and spent our 90 quadrillion Iraq War dollars there.